Following our extensive tastings in Burgundy of the 2010 vintage in November, we returned to the region in February and visited this small domaine tucked away off the beaten-track in Vosne-Romanée. The delightfully unassuming and diligent Jean-Marc Millot has been making the wines at this estate since 1992, and acquired most of his Grand Cru sites only in 1997. Among the domaine’s 6.8 hectares, there are tiny but well-situated plots in the three Grand Crus – Echézeaux, Grands Echézeaux and Clos de Vougeot – as well as some prime Vosne-Romanée vines (in fact, some of his vines in Les Suchots are situated right next to those of Sylvain Cathiard). The winemaking is discreet and transparent, as Jean-Marc values finesse and subtle energy over raw weight and power.
Described by Jean-Marc Millot as a ‘pretty vintage’, this is perfectly reflected in his 2008 Echézeaux which exhibits a delicate and restrained nose of redcurrant, raspberry and subtle earthy nuances. The palate is elegantly concentrated, with attractive depth of flavour, including delicious berry compote, expansive warming spices and a vein of fresh acidity running throughout. The tannins are silky but provide a solid structure that leads to a pleasing finish, seemingly dancing across the palate and remaining for some time. This is a delightful wine (and exceptionally good value Grand Cru Burgundy) that will provide much enjoyment in the mid-to long term.