Having created the domaine in 1988, Jacky Blot is now widely recognised as the greatest producer of the oft-overlooked appellation of Montlouis-sur-Loire, which is situated on the southern bank of the river Loire. These prized vineyards consist entirely of ancient Chenin Blanc vines and include two walled vineyards in Montlouis: the 3 hectare Clos Michet and the newly acquired 12 hectare Clos Mosny. Jacky and his son Jean-Philippe work together to create precise, pure and stunningly dry secs of truly tiny yields. Jacky’s search for quality can be seen in all aspects of the estate – from vineyard to the winery. Harvesting is of course by hand in successive tris, with a further meticulous manual grape-by-grape sorting prior to pressing; a double selection that helps to explain the incredible concentration and purity of fruit in the wines. This has long been an appellation that has hidden in the limelight of its more famous cousin across the river. However, Domaine de la Taille aux Loups is undoubtedly an estate to watch, whose superb reputation is one of the best-kept secrets of the Loire Valley.
This is Jacky’s first vintage of Clos Mosny, having only taken possession of the vineyard in 2010 after several years of negotiations. Displaying mineral precision and purity to an almost unprecedented degree, this exceptional cuvée is scented with lemon, apple skin and grapefruit pith, white flowers and a subtle hint of marzipan. There is a note of perfumed wild honey which leads to an intensely concentrated palate. Zesty lemon peel and fresh minerality provide a vibrant energy that is supported by neatly integrated oak, creating a rich, full and complex mouthfeel. Stone fruits, almond and kernel combine on the long and lingering finish. There is serious drive and precision here, indicating a bright future ahead. A wonderful wine whose quality belies its humble price tag.