2006 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots, William Fèvre
Dry, White, Still
France
Improving/Ready 2010 – 2015 
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Tasting Note
Bouguerots is one of the most fascinating and distinctive cuvées in the Fèvre cellar and has produced a very fine wine in this vintage. Bougerots (the original name of Bougros) is a sub-area of Bougros where Chablis’ Kimmeridgean soil is evident in the wine, in its purest form. White peach scents dominate the nose but there is much more to the perfume with citrus, peach and flinty minerality all playing supporting roles. A complex and concentrated palate rests on a firm-cored structure. Intense and invigorating, this is fine chablis.
Region Details
For years Chablis suffered from being the most abused generic term used in the whole of the wine industry with many new world countries using the name as a general term for dry, crisp white wine. Today things are different, and in some ways this fabulous appellation has benefited from the abuses of the past.
Chablis is rightly recognised as one of the great homes of white wine and its vignerons are now fully aware that they are producers of something very special indeed. Styles vary but quality variations are not the same issue they once were. The key to understanding Chablis today is to search not only for its true, steely mineral structure but more importantly the style of vinification. Whether the wine goes through its élevage in barrel or stainless steel results in very different wines. Some producers are seeking almost Côte de Beaune-styled wines; rich and full, encouraging toasted barrel-matured characteristics in the finished wines. Others encourage a natural steeliness by actively avoiding any barrel contact, thereby expressing the strength of the soil and producing firm, driven wines, which are perfect for shellfish.
Chablis is so much more than a style of dry white wine and is now the region producing great quality at prices long forgotten in certain other parts of Burtgundy.
Vintage Notes
2006 - Chablis
In 2006, Chablis was blessed with the quality of wines one rarely sees in the region, wines that display the precision, breadth and subtlety that makes chablis so highly sought-after.
Weather conditions from budburst to the end of July were close to ideal. Frost damage during the second half of April was minimal due to Chablis’ sprinkler systems and heating stoves. Flowering occurred in generally fine conditions between 9th and 17th June whilst July was hot with occasional storms that brought localised hail. As elsewhere in Europe, August was cool and sufficiently unsettled to cause growers anxiety but the arrival of September brought clear skies and warm temperatures that more than compensated for the disappointing August. The ban de vendanges, the official start of the vintage, was fixed as the 16th September although some estates requested permission to commence two or three days earlier. By and large, picking was completed within ten days and, as grapes arrived at the presses, optimism was for a 2006 vintage of the same outstanding quality achieved the previous year. As the winemaking process continued through autumn and winter, it became increasingly evident that 2006 would go into the record books as a five star vintage in Chablis. Tasting a broad spectrum of wines in July, we rapidly came to the conclusion that 2006 produced exceptional, textbook chablis’ that display to the full the qualities and characteristics described in the opening paragraph. Several winemakers commented that 2006 chablis combines the best attributes of the region’s 2004 and 2005 vintage wines – certainly they display the race that is found in the 2004s and the flattering fruit that is so appealing in the wines of 2005. The perfect scenario? We will be more certain after the wines are bottled but it is abundantly clear that the 2006 vintage is outstanding.
Grape Variety
For long little known outside Burgundy, as a result of public acclaim Chardonnay has just about conquered the world. Whilst not always the most planted white variety, there can be few countries where it is not a feature - from California to China taking in Italy and even Israel on the way. Undoubtedly the main attraction is the magical association with the great white wines of Burgundy; but it is relatively easy to grow and its neutral flavours and soft acidity present no barrier to opportunity. Whether an inexpensive country wine or a hand-crafted high-ender, Chardonnay finds a ready audience of eager consumers. Inevitably its personality varies according to location, ranging from almost watery white and fragrant to near golden and pungent, with fruit notes in a spectrum from green apple (the Loire) to pineapple and oranges (Australia). Oak ageing is almost de-rigueur, and in the cheapest examples the flavours of oak are often simulated by the addition of wood chips or essence. White Burgundy is complex and thrilling and can live for many years if cellared correctly.
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