Tasting Note
"The 2010 is a brilliant Chateau Margaux, as one might expect in this vintage. The percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the final blend hit 90%, the balance Merlot and Cabernet Franc, and only 38% of the crop made it into the Chateau Margaux. Paul Pontallier, the administrator, told me that this wine has even higher levels of tannin than some other extraordinary vintages such as 2005, 2000, 1996, etc. Deep purple, pure and intense, with floral notes, tremendous opulence and palate presence, this is a wine of considerable nobility. With loads of blueberry, black currant and violet-infused fruit and a heady alcohol level above 13.5% (although that looks modest compared to several other first growths, particularly Chateau Latour and Chateau Haut-Brion), its beautifully sweet texture, ripe tannin, abundant depth and profound finish all make for another near-perfect wine that should age effortlessly for 30-40 years. " 99 points, Robert Parker
Region Details
Bordeaux is France's largest quality wine region, indeed producing almost as much wine as Australia. Its westerly position ensures a mild maritime climate, a long growing season and mild summers; rains in the autumn are the primary threat to the harvest, dampening expectations in around one year in three. Red wine predominates - indeed many white wine vines are being uprooted today - with Merlot the dominant variety. The region is dissected by the Gironde estuary, with on the Left Bank the district appellations of the Médoc and the Graves and on the Right Bank, those of Saint-Emilion and Pomerol amongst others. Sauternes is made in the south of the region. The notable red and sweet wines were classified in 1855 according to their then status. At that time not a single Pomerol or Saint-Emilion was deemed worthy despite their historic traditions, and only a single Graves wine. In the last few decades first Saint-Emilion and then Pomerol have become intensely fashionable, their usually small production guaranteeing a premium for scarcity.
Grape Variety
Genetic studies have recently confirmed that, as its name suggests, Cabernet Sauvignon is the accidental result of a crossing between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. Most famous as one of the components of a typical Bordeaux blend (alongside Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in varying proportions), Cabernet Sauvignon has been present in Bordeaux since the 17th Century and has subsequently gained popularity throughout the world. The small berries have a thick skin and numerous pips, both sources of tannin. Tannins render a wine well-suited to ageing; hence world-class Cabernets will continue to improve when cellared over many years. Old world examples offer aromas of blackcurrants, violets and herbs whilst plums and currants can dominate those from the New World. Both show a marked affinity to oak scents from barrel ageing. Because of the taut structure and notable acidity, even where labelled as Cabernet Sauvignon, most examples will contain a judicious element of Merlot for softening purposes.
A grape which has become immensely popular around the world in the last 20 years, initially as a purveyor of the flavours of claret in a fleshy, accessible and inexpensive form. Subsequently it has developed a following as a varietal in its own right and often finds itself the recipient of lavish winemaker attention. Most celebrated as the principal 'Right Bank' grape, underpinning most Pomerols and Saint Emilions with its sweet plum and currant fruit and fleshy, soft textures. These qualities have proved ideal as a foil to the drier, more astringent Cabernet Sauvignon and in the rest of Bordeaux, notably the Médoc, it is a contributor to the blend. Indeed so well does it 'round off' Cabernet Sauvignon that it is now rare to find a single Cabernet, even where marked only as such on the label, which does not include a small percentage of Merlot as compensation. The compliment is played the other way round and many varietal Merlots today are seasoned with a little Cabernet to give backbone. Merlot is a major player in Chilean wines, and plantings have overtaken those of Cabernet in California and indeed in Bordeaux, such is the popularity of this easy to admire variety.
An intensely deep, damson-perfumed variety which serves as a seasoning in top flight Bordeaux blends. Its use must be managed very carefully as if less than fully ripe its astringency can dominate, such that it rarely contributes more than a few percentage points to a blend. Its enigmatic nature has persuaded a handful of pioneers in the New World to experiment with Petit Verdot as the dominant variety. Here absolute ripeness remains the key.
A grape variety of growing importance, Cabernet Franc is today found throughout the world. It is best known as a contributor to most Bordeaux blends from the Médoc to Pomerol. Normally a minor element bringing keen scents and a herbal twist, it provides backbone to the fleshier Merlot in many a Right Bank wine. For small number of top Saint-Émilion Châteaux it is the heart of the blend. In the Loire, Cabernet Franc is the sole variety for such wines as Saumur-Champigny, Bourgueil, Chinon and Anjou-Villages. It is also found as a varietal further afield, in Italy and in the New World; it has found a home in the cool coastal regions of North America and Canada and, more recently, in South Africa and New Zealand. Cabernet Franc produces lighter and less tannic wines than its cousin Cabernet sauvignon, with subtler fruit, herbaceous and spicy characteristics and, especially in the Loire, can smell of pencil shavings!
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