2007 BORDEAUX EN PRIMEUR

THE WINES

Red wines
A year for Merlot or Cabernet or both? The general consensus of opinion – and one which following our extensive tastings we subscribe to - is that, by and large, Merlots are variable in the Médoc but more successful on the Right Bank. Cabernets (Sauvignon and Franc) performed well and deliver the freshness and appeal of a cooler (some would say classic) year. The style of 2007 reds (from across the appellations) veers away from the rich, concentrated wines of some modern era years. 2007s, at their best, are refined, fresh and juicy and, because of the climatic conditions, are lower in both alcohol and in tannins than the average of the last ten years. A refreshing change?
As a result of their naturally supple textures, 2007 reds will be approachable relatively early, though clearly the best have ten-plus year potential. However to reiterate, it is crucial to judge every wine on its individual merits rather than adopting a broad-brush approach. This point applies to the communes too, as the vintage appears to have shared its favours as well as its pitfalls across the appellations which comprise the region. Consistency is not a term easily applied to 2007; good wines are nevertheless to be found from both the Left and Right Banks.

Sweet white wines
The Sauternais are a hardy breed and are well-experienced in being saved by the bell of a fine autumn. Happily September and October weather was magnificent and slowly but surely Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc berries increased in sugar levels and gained concentration as the wonderful autumn progressed. For most properties the harvest commenced mid-September but, crucially, continued until the end of October – even into the first two weeks of November. One proprietor advised me that his final day of harvesting was 12th November. Successive tries brought in fruit at varying degrees of ripeness, concentration and, from mid-October, all-important botrytis, resulting in wines that suggest they will develop beautifully. As always, the samples tasted earlier this month provide only an indication of the final assemblages but we believe that 2007 has produced some highly worthy sauternes and barsac.

Dry whites
2007 vintage dry white wines exhibit crisp, racy, fragrant characteristics so typical of years that are void of a prolonged spell of hot weather during July and August. Pessac-Léognan whites display appealing citrus and tropical notes, with a cut of acidity and length of flavour. As elsewhere quality is variable but overall the wines are very attractive. If you enjoy vibrancy in the dry white wines of Bordeaux then you will find the best 2007s delicious.