Bordeaux 2006 En Primuer
Typical Bordeaux Château
As I write, the pace of the 2006 Bordeaux En Primeur Campaign has at last started to gain momentum. During May there were several false dawns but the arrival of June has encouraged proprietors of several popular châteaux to release prices. It is perhaps prices that hold the key to the success of the campaign for châteaux, Bordeaux négociants, the wine trade and the consumer. As we commented in the overview of the vintage written immediately following our first tasting of the wines in early April, the general quality of the 2006 vintage at classed growth (and Right Bank equivalent) level is good, with a number of very good to excellent wines produced by well-situated, quality-conscious estates, most notably in Pomerol and parts of the Médoc. A follow-up visit later in April confirmed this view and although 2006 is neither the equivalent of the 2005 or 2000 vintages in terms of overall greatness, it is superior to what we expected.
Releases have come slowly this year and we still await announcements from the First Growths and a host of other senior estates. Clearly consumers are being cautious with their buying by supporting properties with a proven track record as far as quality is concerned and are studying prices closely. We have taken a serious look at opening prices and have decided not to purchase a considerable number of wines that have featured in our list for many years. However, wines such as Léoville-Barton, Giscours and Lynch-Bages have been in heavy demand.
Bordeaux négociants have advised us that traditional market for Bordeaux - namely Europe, has been buying quite strongly. Belgium, Switzerland and France are keen buyers and the UK is purchasing steadily, but selectively. The USA, historically an erratic market, is out of the frame this year as a result of a weak dollar whilst the new markets in the Far East, Eastern Europe, South America and India have bought small quantities but for the present prefer to buy post-bottling.
Langoa-Barton, which is a real beauty this year and Lagrange, a property that is riding a crest of a wave, are favourites amongst the châteaux which have released so far. Calon-Ségur has produced a stunning 2006 vintage to continue an impressive run of successes, as has the Lafite-owned Duhart-Milon. For ‘everyday drinking’ Médoc, look no further than Olivier Sèze’s vibrant and pure Château Charmail. As for the Right Bank, St-Emilion estates Moulin St-Georges and Belair are recommended, the former is an example of modern-style vinification whereas Belair, a neighbour of Ausone, is produced along classic lines. A host of Pomerols can be strongly recommended, indeed it was difficult to find a wine we didn’t like in this Merlot-dominated region. However, Beauregard is sumptuously fruity and well-structured and I really liked what I saw at the rejuvenated Châteaux Rouget and Vieux Maillet. These three Pomerols will, I am sure, prove excellent purchases ‘en primeur’.
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John Thorogood
Head of Buying