German Riesling 2006
The 2006 vintage continues a successful run of vintages in Germany since 2001. German Riesling is enjoying a renaissance amongst new generation of drinkers, tired of overblown Chardonnay and untouched by the confected blends of the 1970s and 1980s that debased the market.
There is often a degree of scepticism about ‘yet another great vintage’. In this instance 2006 really has produced a range of concentrated and balanced wines. Both 2005 and 2006 are excellent vintages yet for different reasons, which for many is part of the enjoyment of wine. The richer, broader 2005s compliment the racy, vibrant 2006s.
German wines are of higher and more consistent quality than ever. This is due, in part, to the increasing realisation that great wine ‘is made in the vineyard’, involving close attention to working the vineyard throughout the growing season, allied with the effects of global warming. Erni Loosen, of Weingut Dr Loosen comments “Our fathers had to cope with the problem of under ripeness. Today, we are more likely to be worried about the grapes being too ripe.”
German Rieslings are unmatched in style. The intense floral pear, peach and apricot aromatics, with racy acidity balanced by residual sugar and an alcohol of 8-11% is unique to German Riesling. These are delicate lightbodied wines, yet with concentration and complexity. This is a sweet wine, but not in the sense of being cloying, rich or sugary and confected. The sweetness and the acidity balance each other giving a vivid and vibrant wine. Kabinett and Spätlese are at the ‘less-sweet’ end of the spectrum and are hugely enjoyable drunk on their own. They are perfect apéritifs, and a versatile match for south-east Asian cuisine.
Auslese mark the transition into a richer, honeyed, sweeter style. Erni Loosen suggests that an Auslese is the perfect way to “close the table”. After a dinner with a range of wines, a glass of chilled, sweet, light Riesling is an ideal way to finish the evening.
Adrian Heaven,
Senior Wine Advisor, Fine Wine